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Comfort Plan
Two honest preseason visits each year — furnace in fall, A/C in spring
Diagnosing
Simple field checklists: where to test, what you should see, and what the reading means.
1Condensate Safety / Clogged Drain
Scenario: Thermostat is calling for A/C, but the outdoor unit is not running.
Step 1 — Prove the thermostat is calling
At the furnace/air-handler board, set your meter to AC volts. Put one lead on Y and one on C.
24–28V: Cooling call is present → keep going.
0V: The problem is before the drain safety → check thermostat/control first.
0V: The problem is before the drain safety → check thermostat/control first.
Step 2 — Find the float switch
Follow the low-voltage cooling circuit. Look for a float switch in the drain trap, secondary pan, or a switch wired into Y (sometimes R). Its job is to break the 24V signal when water backs up.
Step 3 — Test the switch
Leave the system calling for cooling. Put one meter lead on each side of the float switch.
About 24V across the switch: Switch is OPEN → the signal is stopping here.
About 0V across the switch: Switch is CLOSED → signal should be passing through.
About 0V across the switch: Switch is CLOSED → signal should be passing through.
Easy rule: 24V across a switch = open. 0V across a switch = closed.
Step 4 — Find out WHY it opened
Look before replacing anything. Check for water in the pan, a plugged trap, slime/debris in the drain, failed condensate pump, poor drain pitch, or an iced evaporator creating excess water. If the float is physically sitting in water, the safety is probably doing its job.
Step 5 — Fix it and prove it
Clear the drain, then pour water through it and make sure it actually leaves. When the water level drops, confirm the float closes and you now have about 24V leaving the switch. The outdoor contactor should pull in and the A/C should start.
Shortcut: 24V before float + 0V after float = the float switch is stopping the A/C. Find the drain problem.
2Outdoor Unit Completely Dead
Scenario: Thermostat is calling, but the condenser is doing absolutely nothing.
Step 1 — Check 24V at the contactor coil
Set your meter to AC volts. Put one lead on each of the two small contactor coil terminals.
About 24V: Indoor controls are telling the condenser to run → check contactor/high voltage.
0V: The cooling signal is not reaching the condenser → go inside.
0V: The cooling signal is not reaching the condenser → go inside.
Step 2 — Check Y to C at the furnace board
Put one lead on Y and one on C.
About 24V here but 0V outside: Something between furnace and condenser is stopping the signal → float switch, broken wire, pressure switch, loose splice, damaged outdoor wire.
0V here: Check R to C. If R-C has ~24V, suspect thermostat/control. If R-C is 0V, check low-voltage fuse, transformer, furnace power, or board.
0V here: Check R to C. If R-C has ~24V, suspect thermostat/control. If R-C is 0V, check low-voltage fuse, transformer, furnace power, or board.
Step 3 — If you have 24V, watch the contactor
The contactor should physically pull in.
24V at coil + no pull-in: Likely bad/stuck contactor. With power OFF, an OL reading across the coil means the coil is open/bad.
It pulls in: Move to the 240V test.
It pulls in: Move to the 240V test.
Step 4 — Check 240V coming INTO the contactor
With proper electrical safety/PPE, meter L1 to L2 on the incoming side of the contactor.
About 240V: House power is reaching the condenser → check what leaves the contactor.
0V / no 240V: Go backward → disconnect, fuses, breaker, or wiring.
0V / no 240V: Go backward → disconnect, fuses, breaker, or wiring.
Step 5 — Check 240V coming OUT of the contactor
With the contactor pulled in, meter T1 to T2 on the load side.
240V in but no 240V out: Bad contactor.
240V in AND 240V out: Power circuit is working → move to capacitor, condenser fan motor, and compressor testing.
240V in AND 240V out: Power circuit is working → move to capacitor, condenser fan motor, and compressor testing.
Simple flow: 24V at contactor? → No: trace Y. Yes: did contactor pull in? → No: contactor. Yes: 240V L1-L2? → No: breaker/disconnect/fuses. Yes: 240V T1-T2? → No: contactor. Yes: test capacitor/fan/compressor.
3Compressor Diagnosis
Scenario: The compressor will not start, hums, trips the breaker, or runs but does not seem to pump.
Step 1 — Prove power is available
System calling for cooling. Meter on AC volts. At the contactor load side, put one lead on T1 and one on T2.
About 240V: Power is available to the compressor circuit → keep going.
No 240V: Stop. The compressor is not the first problem → go back to contactor, disconnect, breaker, or wiring.
No 240V: Stop. The compressor is not the first problem → go back to contactor, disconnect, breaker, or wiring.
Step 2 — Test the compressor capacitor first
Power OFF. Verify power is off, then discharge the capacitor. Remove the wire from HERM. Set meter to capacitance (µF). Put one lead on C and one on HERM.
Reading near the printed µF rating: Capacitor is likely okay → keep going.
Low, 0, or OL: Bad capacitor can make a good compressor look bad → replace capacitor and retest before condemning compressor.
Low, 0, or OL: Bad capacitor can make a good compressor look bad → replace capacitor and retest before condemning compressor.
Example: If the capacitor says 45 µF ±6%, it should be roughly 42.3–47.7 µF.
Step 3 — Ohm the 3 compressor terminals
Power OFF. Remove all compressor wires. You have 3 pins: C, R, S. Meter on ohms. Test every pair: C-R, C-S, and R-S.
Normal pattern: C-R = lowest, C-S = middle, R-S = highest. The two smaller readings added together should be close to the highest reading.
OL on a pair: A winding may be open. If compressor is very hot, let it cool first because the internal overload may be open.
OL on a pair: A winding may be open. If compressor is very hot, let it cool first because the internal overload may be open.
Easy rule: Small + middle ≈ biggest.
Step 4 — Check if it is grounded
Keep all compressor wires OFF. Meter on ohms. Put one lead on a clean bare-metal spot on the compressor shell. Touch the other lead to C, then R, then S.
OL on all 3: Good — no obvious short to the shell.
Any resistance / continuity to shell: Compressor is grounded → do not keep energizing it. Compressor is bad.
Any resistance / continuity to shell: Compressor is grounded → do not keep energizing it. Compressor is bad.
Easy rule: Terminal → metal shell should read OL.
Step 5 — If electrical tests pass, prove it starts and pumps
Reconnect correctly, restore power, and call for cooling. Clamp the compressor common wire for amps and watch refrigerant pressures.
Hums + amps shoot near LRA + will not start: Compressor may be mechanically locked. Confirm voltage is not collapsing and capacitor/start components are correct.
Runs, but suction and head barely separate: Possible internal mechanical/pumping failure.
Runs with normal pressure difference and reasonable amps: Compressor itself is probably not the problem.
Runs, but suction and head barely separate: Possible internal mechanical/pumping failure.
Runs with normal pressure difference and reasonable amps: Compressor itself is probably not the problem.
Simple flow: 240V available? → capacitor good? → windings make sense? → no terminal grounded? → does it start and create a pressure difference? If it fails one of those checks, you know exactly where the problem is.
4Low-Voltage Short / Blowing Fuse
Scenario: The 3A/5A furnace board fuse keeps blowing and you need to find where the 24V short is.
Step 1 — Watch WHEN the fuse blows
Power OFF. Replace the board fuse only with the same amp rating. Turn power back on and watch when it fails.
Blows immediately: Think R/C, thermostat cable, accessory, board, or transformer-side short.
Blows only on cooling: Focus on Y and the outdoor-unit circuit.
Blows only on heat: Focus on W/heating controls.
Blows only on fan: Focus on G/fan control.
Blows only on cooling: Focus on Y and the outdoor-unit circuit.
Blows only on heat: Focus on W/heating controls.
Blows only on fan: Focus on G/fan control.
Easy rule: When it blows tells you which circuit to chase.
Step 2 — Remove the thermostat circuit
Power OFF. Take a picture first. Remove thermostat/control wires from R, C, Y, W, G at the furnace board. Turn power back on.
Fuse still blows: Short is probably not in the thermostat cable. Check furnace board, transformer wiring, humidifier/UV/accessories, loose wires, or anything tied to R/C.
Fuse stays good: The short is somewhere in the thermostat/control wiring you just removed.
Fuse stays good: The short is somewhere in the thermostat/control wiring you just removed.
Step 3 — Reconnect one circuit at a time
Keep the thermostat itself off the wall/base if possible. Reconnect R and C first. If fuse stays good, add G and test fan, then W and test heat, then Y and test cooling.
Fuse blows after one wire/call is added: You just found the branch to chase.
Example: Everything is fine until Y is energized → chase the cooling/outdoor-unit circuit.
Example: Everything is fine until Y is energized → chase the cooling/outdoor-unit circuit.
Do not reconnect everything at once. One circuit at a time.
Step 4 — If Y blows the fuse, split furnace from condenser
Power OFF. At the furnace, disconnect the two low-voltage wires going outside to the condenser, usually the Y and C pair. Leave the thermostat connected. Power back on and call for cooling.
Fuse stays good now: Short is in the outdoor cable or outdoor 24V controls.
Fuse still blows: Problem is still on the thermostat/furnace side.
Fuse still blows: Problem is still on the thermostat/furnace side.
You just cut the system in half.
Step 5 — Separate the outdoor wire from the outdoor unit
Power OFF. Go outside and disconnect the low-voltage cable before it feeds the contactor/safeties. Reconnect that cable at the furnace, then call for cooling. Now you are energizing the cable only.
Fuse blows: Outdoor low-voltage wire itself is shorted → look for rubbed, pinched, chewed, stapled, or bare wire.
Fuse stays good: Cable is probably okay → short is inside the condenser control circuit.
Fuse stays good: Cable is probably okay → short is inside the condenser control circuit.
Step 6 — Isolate outdoor components one at a time
Start with the contactor coil. Power OFF, remove the two low-voltage wires from the coil, then retry. If needed, continue isolating pressure switches, defrost board, reversing-valve circuit, and other 24V controls one at a time.
Fuse stops blowing after one component is disconnected: That component/branch is the suspect.
Fuse still blows: Keep isolating the next 24V branch.
Fuse still blows: Keep isolating the next 24V branch.
Step 7 — Prove the thermostat itself
If the furnace side, thermostat cable, outdoor cable, and outdoor controls all test okay, but the fuse blows only when the thermostat is connected or makes a call, the thermostat becomes the main suspect.
Simple flow: When does fuse blow? → remove thermostat wires → reconnect R/C, then G, W, Y one at a time → if Y causes it, remove outdoor pair at furnace → then disconnect outdoor cable at condenser → then isolate outdoor components. Goal: disconnect sections until the fuse stops blowing.
5Honeywell / Resideo Zoning Troubleshooting
Scenario: One zone is too hot/cold, a damper will not move, the board sees a call but equipment will not start, or the whole zoning system is acting weird.
Step 1 — Start with ONE zone and make a clear call
Pick the problem zone. Turn every other thermostat off or satisfy them. On the problem thermostat, make an obvious call: raise heat several degrees or lower cooling several degrees. Then stand at the zone board and watch what changes.
Calling zone should show OPEN / opening.
Zones not calling should normally show CLOSED / closing.
On an HZ311, zone LED green = open/opening, red = closed/closing. A blinking amber zone light points to a thermostat or damper short.
Zones not calling should normally show CLOSED / closing.
On an HZ311, zone LED green = open/opening, red = closed/closing. A blinking amber zone light points to a thermostat or damper short.
Easy rule: Do not chase the damper first. First prove the board knows which thermostat is calling.
Step 2 — Prove the zone board has good 24V power
Meter on AC volts. At the zone panel power terminals, put one lead on R and one on C.
About 24–28V: Board has control power → keep going.
0V: Check transformer, fuse, furnace power, wiring.
Voltage drops badly when dampers move: Transformer may be overloaded or a damper/wire may be shorting.
0V: Check transformer, fuse, furnace power, wiring.
Voltage drops badly when dampers move: Transformer may be overloaded or a damper/wire may be shorting.
If the board does not have solid 24V, nothing after it can be trusted.
Step 3 — Prove the thermostat call is ENTERING the board
Go to the thermostat terminals for the problem zone on the zone board. Meter the call terminal to that zone's C.
Cooling: Y to C should be about 24V when that zone calls.
Heating: W to C should be about 24V when that zone calls.
Fan: G to C should be about 24V when fan is called.
24V present: Thermostat/wire successfully delivered the call.
0V: Go backward → thermostat, thermostat setup, loose terminal, broken wire.
Heating: W to C should be about 24V when that zone calls.
Fan: G to C should be about 24V when fan is called.
24V present: Thermostat/wire successfully delivered the call.
0V: Go backward → thermostat, thermostat setup, loose terminal, broken wire.
Call at thermostat but no call at board = thermostat or wire problem, not a damper problem.
Step 4 — See what the board is telling the DAMPER to do
Most systems you see use spring-open / power-close dampers such as ARD/ZD style. On Honeywell TrueZONE panels, M1 = common, M4 = open, M6 = closed. Spring-open/power-close dampers normally use the common + close circuit; always confirm the exact damper diagram.
This zone IS calling: Its damper should be open. A spring-open damper normally has closing power removed so the spring opens it.
This zone is NOT calling: Board should command it closed. Check M1 to M6; about 24V means the board is telling it to CLOSE.
24V M1-M6 but damper stays open: Bad actuator, broken linkage, stuck blade, or damper wiring.
No closing voltage when it should close: Board/setup/control issue.
This zone is NOT calling: Board should command it closed. Check M1 to M6; about 24V means the board is telling it to CLOSE.
24V M1-M6 but damper stays open: Bad actuator, broken linkage, stuck blade, or damper wiring.
No closing voltage when it should close: Board/setup/control issue.
Best shortcut: 24V sent to CLOSE + no movement = look at the damper, not the thermostat.
Step 5 — Prove whether the DAMPER itself is bad
Power OFF before moving wires. Watch the damper shaft/indicator, not just the motor noise. For a spring-open/power-close damper, remove closing power and see if it springs open. Then restore the proper close command and watch it travel closed.
No power + damper springs open: Spring/mechanical open action is working.
No power + damper stays closed: Blade/shaft/actuator is mechanically stuck or installed wrong.
Correct 24V close command + actuator does not move: Bad actuator or open damper wiring.
Actuator moves but airflow does not change: Shaft slipped, blade disconnected, blade jammed, or duct issue.
No power + damper stays closed: Blade/shaft/actuator is mechanically stuck or installed wrong.
Correct 24V close command + actuator does not move: Bad actuator or open damper wiring.
Actuator moves but airflow does not change: Shaft slipped, blade disconnected, blade jammed, or duct issue.
Always watch the actual shaft/blade position. A motor can sound like it is working while the damper is not.
Step 6 — Prove the board is sending the call OUT to the equipment
If the board sees the zone call and dampers are doing the right thing, move to the EQUIPMENT terminals on the zone panel.
Cooling call: Check equipment Y to C → about 24V.
Heating call: Check equipment W to C → about 24V.
Fan call: Check equipment G to C → about 24V.
Call enters zone board but does NOT leave: Check board setup, DATS/limit condition, purge/timing, or failed panel.
24V leaves the board but equipment does not run: Stop blaming zoning. Troubleshoot the furnace/air handler/condenser normally.
Heating call: Check equipment W to C → about 24V.
Fan call: Check equipment G to C → about 24V.
Call enters zone board but does NOT leave: Check board setup, DATS/limit condition, purge/timing, or failed panel.
24V leaves the board but equipment does not run: Stop blaming zoning. Troubleshoot the furnace/air handler/condenser normally.
Thermostat → board input → board output → equipment. Follow the 24V in that order.
Step 7 — If ALL zones act weird, check DATS, purge and transformer load
When the problem affects the whole house instead of one zone, look for something shared by every zone.
HZ311 HEAT light blinking: DATS high-temperature limit has been reached.
HZ311 COOL light blinking: DATS low-temperature limit has been reached.
PURGE light: Board may be in its purge period after a call; do not mistake this for a failed damper/board.
R-C voltage falls when several dampers close: Check transformer VA and damper load. Multiple dampers can be wired in parallel, but the transformer still has to carry them.
HZ311 COOL light blinking: DATS low-temperature limit has been reached.
PURGE light: Board may be in its purge period after a call; do not mistake this for a failed damper/board.
R-C voltage falls when several dampers close: Check transformer VA and damper load. Multiple dampers can be wired in parallel, but the transformer still has to carry them.
One bad zone = chase that zone. Every zone bad = check the things they all share.
Step 8 — Fast symptom cheat sheet
Zone thermostat calls, board does not see it: Thermostat / thermostat wire.
Board sees call, wrong damper position: Test damper output and actuator.
24V M1-M6, damper will not close: Damper actuator / wiring / mechanical bind.
No power and spring-open damper will not open: Mechanical damper problem.
Board sees call but no equipment output: Board setup / DATS / purge / board issue.
Equipment output has 24V but furnace or A/C is dead: Leave zoning and troubleshoot the equipment.
Strong airflow from a zone that should be closed: Verify blade actually closed; check actuator/linkage and damper leakage.
Board sees call, wrong damper position: Test damper output and actuator.
24V M1-M6, damper will not close: Damper actuator / wiring / mechanical bind.
No power and spring-open damper will not open: Mechanical damper problem.
Board sees call but no equipment output: Board setup / DATS / purge / board issue.
Equipment output has 24V but furnace or A/C is dead: Leave zoning and troubleshoot the equipment.
Strong airflow from a zone that should be closed: Verify blade actually closed; check actuator/linkage and damper leakage.
Simple zoning flow: Does the board have 24V? → does the thermostat call reach the board? → is the board commanding the correct damper? → does the damper physically move? → does the board send W/Y/G to the equipment? Find the first place the signal stops doing what it should.
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Preseason Comfort Plan
Two preseason visits. Clear answers. No fear-based selling.
Built on truth.
Maintenance should give homeowners confidence — not scare them into repairs.
The Preseason Comfort Plan includes one furnace precision tune-up in the fall before heating season and one A/C precision tune-up in the spring before cooling season. At each visit, Kramer Mechanical checks the equipment, explains what is working well, what should be watched, and what actually needs attention. The goal is honest maintenance and planning, not replacing working parts just to create a sale.
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One preseason furnace precision tune-up, safety/operation review, maintenance, and a clear condition report before winter.
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One preseason A/C precision tune-up, operation/performance review, maintenance, and a clear condition report before summer.
Membership value: two scheduled preseason visits each year, 15% off repairs, 7% off equipment installations, and priority scheduling when service demand is high. When an unexpected breakdown comes up during a busy period, Comfort Plan members receive priority over non-members, with member calls handled in the order they are received. Any repair or equipment installation is explained and approved before work begins.
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Cade Kramer
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I started Kramer Mechanical because I wanted to build a company centered on service, truth, and treating people right. My goal is to explain what I find clearly, give you honest options, and never pressure you into work you do not need.
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